Buy the new book, "Beaucoup Arlo & Janis!"Today's "Arlo & Janis!"
The New Orleans Cookbook is a real book, by Rima and Richard Collin. First published in 1975, it’s still in print in paperback, and it has been my go-to source for authentic creole and cajun recipes for many years. As for making a roux, I used to be terrified at the prospect of scorching the mixture of fat and flour, a mortal sin in any Louisiana kitchen. I would follow to the letter the universal admonition, “brown over low heat, stirring constantly.” I would spend up to two hours, literally, stirring the slurry until it achieved a rich brown color, just short of the point of no return, all the while sipping wine as was also recommended by a surprisingly large percentage of cajun chefs. Eventually, I learned that, with experience, it is possible to turn up the heat and brown the roux at a much faster rate. It’s tricky, but when I mastered this, I was able to proceed with the cooking without a nap first.