I’m in the market for a roasting pan. I’ve gone far more holiday seasons than I’d care to admit using those unstable disposable pans covered with aluminum foil. This is one of those things I say every year, but this year I’m going to follow through. I’m leaning toward the classic enameled model which can be purchased at the local hardware store. You know: the same type of pan your grandmother and your mother employed to cook the best food you’ve ever eaten in your life. Oh, I confess! I’ve been tempted by those heavy, expensive, stainless-steel versions available from places like yourgrannywouldturnoverinhergrave.com. Boy, howdy! Who wouldn’t be a great chef if he had one of those? However, I want to have money left over for a chicken, so I’m going to the hardware store today—and it won’t be crowded.